Lamb skewers (羊肉串).

Lamb skewers (羊肉串)

Lamb skewers are a byproduct of the Chinese Islamic tradition in the western Xinjiang region and have gained popularity in the northeast, particularly in Beijing.  These skewers of lamb are traditionally spiced with plenty of cumin and crushed red pepper, but some Sichuan peppercorn gives them a little kick.

Traditionally, small pieces of lamb with a good mix of lean meat and fat are used.  Branched chain fatty acids in lamb fat give lamb its distinct flavor,[1] and the incorporation of fat into the skewers helps them stand up to the strong spices used in the rub.  It also provides a mix of textures that is appealing to many in Eastern cuisine.  I prefer breaking down lamb shoulder steak, but if you are making a larger batch, you can break down a leg of lamb for leaner meat.  For a healthier alternative, you can use only lean pieces of lamb, but I would recommend adding some oil to the marinade to prevent the spices from burning during grilling.

For the spice mix, I have provided a starting point that has some heat.  For less heat, you can increase the amount of cumin used – in fact, it is hard to go overboard with cumin in this recipe.  Crushing the spices with a mortar and pestle avoids turning the mixture into a paste when wet and allows the meat to brown without burning the spices; however cumin powder can be used in a pinch.

Ingredients

• 1 pound lamb meat broken down into bite size pieces not larger than ½ inch thick on at least one side
• Salt to taste
• Splash of cooking wine (traditionally a cooking wine like Shaoxing wine, but any cooking wine like sherry or vermouth would suffice)
• Skewers
• (Optional) Cumin powder for dusting meat as it cooks

For the spice mix:

• 1 tablespoon red Sichuan peppercorn
• 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper
• 3 tablespoons whole cumin seeds

Instructions

1. If you’re using wooden skewers, soak them in water to prevent burning on the grill.
2. Grind the Sichuan peppercorn and cumin seeds separately in a mortar and pestle until a medium crushed consistency is achieved.  Combine together with crushed red pepper to create a spice mix.
3. Salt the lamb to taste in a container.  Pour in the majority of your spice mix, reserve some for dusting on the grill.  Add a splash of cooking wine and mix well.  Form lamb into skewers.  Let marinade for at least 10 minutes.
4. Prepare the grill.  If you’re using a gas grill, heat the grill at medium high.  If you’re using charcoal, make sure you have adequate space directly over the coals.
5. Grill lamb skewers for about 5-8 minutes depending on thickness of meat, taking care to avoid excessive flare-ups and burning by moving skewers to areas of lower heat if necessary.  Turn and dust skewers frequently with reserved spice mix and/or optional extra cumin powder as you grill them.
6. Serve with extra cumin powder for dipping if desired.

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[1] See Watkins PJ, Kearney G, Rose G, et al. Effect of branched-chain fatty acids, 3-methylindole and 4-methylphenol on consumer sensory scores of grilled lamb meat. Meat Sci. 2014;96(2):1088-1094.